The fort city that protected almost all!

Intramuros or the walled city of Manila, is located on the southern side of the Pasig River close to the rivers entrance into Manila Bay.

The construction of Intramuros started in 1571 by Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, a Spaniard. The walled city

Only the Spanish elite and covers an area of about 160 acres. Intramuros was a fortress city with walls 6 metres high and a commanding 3 kilometres in length, it is no wonder it was impenetrable.Mestizos (mixed race) were permitted to live inside Intramuros, where at night the city gates were locked down. The natives and Chinese were not permitted to live inside the walled fortress and were resigned to live outside the great walls of Intramuros.

Intramuros was designed with 51 blocks within the vast walls, the only access in or out of Intramuros was via seven fortified gates. A moat around the walled city was added in 1603. Spread throughout the 51 blocks of the city were 12 churches, hospitals, domestic accommodation, military barracks, Governors Palace and schools.

Repelling Attack
Intramuros came under attack on many occasion. The Chinese, Dutch, Portuguese and the Sulu pirates all had a go and trying to take Intramuros by force, however they were never successful.

Intramuros served as the center of political, military and religious power of the Spaniards during the time that the Philippines were a colony of Spain

World War II
During World War II, Intramuros was used by the Japanese as their garrison and prison. It was severely damaged, along with most parts of Manila, during the Allied bombings to liberate the city from Japanese occupation. The US Administration filled the moat in to prevent the onset of disease. Today a golf course takes the place of where the most once stood.

Present Day
At present, Intramuros is the only district of Manila where old Spanish-era influences were retained. Much of the development of present-day Manila occurred outside the gates of Intramuros, leaving the old walls, streets and churches of Intramuros minimally touched by modernization, although a Starbucks and a McDonald's now sit alongside distinguished educational institutions within its walls.

The old moats that surrounded Intramuros have been transformed into a golf course where locals and foreign nationals play the sport. The garrison that was Fort Santiago is now a tourist spot where visitors can see how Manila was like during the Spanish Era. The old cobblestone streets of Intramuros are now sites for cafes that cater to a variety of clientele and cultural presentations that feature native Filipino heritage.

Through the WOW Philippines campaign, of then Tourism Secretary Richard Gordon, Intramuros had been spruced up, making it one of the most-visited tourist attractions in Metro Manila. New attractions have been opened, the Clamshell 1 and 2 was built to host numerous trade fairs that showcase indigenous products from the different provinces of the country. The Light and Sound Museum depicts the colonial rule of the Spaniards in the Philippines and the Filipino struggle to gain independence from the foreign invaders. An added feature in Intramuros, is the installment of lamp posts which seem to date back in the late 1800's. For added security, security guards dressed as a guardia civil had been scattered around the area.

Notable Attractions
A visit to Intramuros would not be complete without spending some time looking around:

• Fort Santiago
• San Agustin Church
• Manila Cathedral
• Casa Manila Museum

How do I get to Intramuros?

Light Rail Transit – LRT
If you are coming to Intramuros by LRT, get off at the United Nations Station. From here it is only a 20 to 25 minute stroll to the gates of Intramuros.

Taxi
Taking a taxi is very easy as Intramuros is such a popular destination all taxi drivers know where it is.

Jeepney
Take the jeepney that travels down Bonifacio Drive as this is where you will want to get off.

FORT SANTIAGO

Walk into one of the oldest Spanish stone fortresses in the country. Fort Santiago is located in the northwestern part of the Walled City. In pre-Spanish times, this was the site of Rajah Sulayman's "kuta" or fort. The Spaniards under the term of Governor General Gomez Perez Dasmariñas fortified what was originally wooden structures. Other governors general continued to modernize Fort Santiago's defenses. Which makes it probably the best laid-out portion of the walls.

FORT GROUNDS

Upon entering the fort, one will see the the Intramuros Visitors Center (IVC) located at the restored Baluartillo de San Francisco Javier, where military supplies were stored when it was built in 1663. The Reducto de San Francisco Javier was added in 1773.

The ten chambers of the fortification house an information center where tours can be scheduled and information on Intramuros events and attractions can be obtained; a restaurant and souvenir shops showcasing Filipino craftsmanship.

On the right is the Plaza Moriones, named after Gov. Gen. Domingo Moriones (1877-1880). It was used as a public promenade until the 1863 earthquake devastated the fort. The military fenced off the promenade area in 1864 when the buildings around the plaza were used as soldiers' barracks.

Opposite Plaza Moriones is wall of the Almacenes Reales or Royal Warehouses. These were storehouses for goods unloaded along the river wharfs, to supply the fort and other institutions in the city. Erected in 1591, these warehouses were rebuilt as soldiers' quarters after Plaza Moriones was fenced off in 1864. The warehouse was moved to the wall adjacent to the Puerta de Almacenes near Fort Santiago. This was to facilitate entry of goods to the city. The new warehouses were built during the term of Gov. Gen. Fausto Cruzat y Gongora (1690-1701). These were continually renovated until completion under the term of ad interim Gov. Jose de Torralba (1709-1717). It was during this period that the MAESTRANZA (the foundry and arsenal) was also transferred nearby. In 1796, the area was demolished and a new riverfront was built and called the Muelle de Almacenes. The gate and this section of the walls lasted until 1903 when it was leveled by American military engineers for easy access to the river wharfs.

Next to the picnic area and refreshment kiosk is the archaeological excavation of Artilleria de Maestranza, a foundry which cast cannons and ammunition during the Spanish period.

In front of the main gate of Fort Santiago is the Moat, the first line of defense surrounding the fortified city with water. Guarding the fort on the bay and the river are the Baluarte de San Miguel and Medio Baluarte de San Francisco, respectively. These ramparts were built in 1609 to fortify the defenses of the principal gate of Fort Santiago.


PLAZA DE ARMAS

The Plaza de Armas was the fort's main square, which was probably the site of the Tagalog settlement of Maynilad, the palisaded kingdom of Rajah Soliman. Surrounding it are the ruins of buildings once used as military barracks and storehouses. At the right is an 18th century adobe building which was converted into the Dulaang Raha Sulayman (Rajah Sulayman Theater), where seasonal performances are staged by the Philippine Educational Theater Association (PETA).

Used as soldiers' barracks, it also had a room for petty officers. This was used as a makeshift chapel-cell where Philippine national hero Dr. Jose Rizal spent his last day on earth. The Rizal Shrine at the left was built in honor of the national hero. It stands on the site of a brick barracks where Rizal was imprisoned from November 3 to December 30, 1896. A life-size wax statue of the hero is one of the main attractions of the shrine.

Recessed in a corner of the fort is the Postigo de la Nstra. Sra. del Soledad (Postern of Our Lady of Solitude). This gate was used by the fort occupants as a passage to the Pasig River. In 1762, Lieut. Gov. Gen. Simon de Anda escaped through this gate as British soldiers captured the city. Bringing part of the city's treasury and official documents, Anda fled to Pampanga and established himself as Gov. Gen. of the Philippines. He headed an underground Spanish government and led a resistance movement against the British until the end of the occupation in 1764.

A terraced garden covers what was once the site of the Casa del Castillano or the residence of the Commander of the Fort. Only the aljibe ( water cistern) which supplied fresh water from a well below remains of the structure. The aljibe itself was used as a storage room during the American period. In 1904, this was the headquarters of the Philippine Division of the U.S. Army. The building was renovated with a platform and tower extending to the Baluarte de Santa Barbara.

Baluarte de Santa Barbara began in 1593 as a wooden platform that protected the entrance to the Pasig River. It was rebuilt in stone with storage vaults and a powder magazine in 1599. Renovations continued into the 18th century, including the addition of a semi-circular platform (Media Naranja).

Stories of prisoners drowning in the dungeons during high tide abound. However, archaeological evidence proves otherwise. The dungeons, which were the former storage vaults, were built way above the river level and it would be impossible for the waters to flood the chambers even during high tide. 

The chambers of the powder magazine were used as prison cells for hundreds of guerillas and civilians arrested during World War II. Their remains were discovered after the Battle of Manila. The white marble cross marks the common grave of these victims.

KALESA TOUR: a MUST!

My first introduction to the Kalesa was at the old stone walled city of Intramuros in Manila.

The kalesa is basically a horse drawn carriage, it was introduced to the Philippines in the 18th Century by the Spanish. It was the upper classes mode of transport, only the nobles and officials could afford the luxury of the Kalesa.

Things have changed a little bit now!

You can find the calesa in most of the major tourist traps. The most popular area is Intramuros and you can also see them around Chinatown. In the Ilocos Region the province of Ilocos Sur is also famous for the kalesa, particularly around the capital Vigan. It is well worth a trip in the kalesa as you navigate the cobblestone roads that interlock Vigan.

To the south of the Philippines the calesa can also be found in Cebu.

CASA MANILA

Welcome to a whole house of a museum. Casa Manila was constructed based on archival building plans. Discover here how a wealthy family -- member of the ilustrado or privileged class -- used to live.

The museum recreates the lifestyle during the colonial period through antique furniture, paintings, lighting fixtures and other objects of decorative art.

From the moment you enter the wide piedra china-paved zaguan (corridor) where guests used to get off from their carriages, to the courtyard, all the way to the interior; bits and pieces of our many foreign influences are evident.

The vases are Ming, the wooden furniture is Victorian. Walls are Baroque. The high ceilings and wide narra planks for flooring are Castillan. And the capiz windows and louvers were adapted by the Spaniards to provide better ventilation in our tropical climate.

Even before World War II, most of the houses and some churches in Intramuros were already damaged by major earthquakes in 1863 and 1880.

Casa Manila, a "colonial lifestyle" museum, is only a section of Plaza San Luis Complex, a commercial-cultural complex. As with all new structures built within the walls of Intramuros, facades here are based on colonial period designs.

The facade of Casa Manila was copied from a house (c.1850) at Calle Jaboneros in San Nicolas, a district across the Pasig River. In that area, the first floor of houses were rented out to shopkeepers. In Casa Manila, you will find shops in the ground floor where you may buy antiques, art objects and souvenir items.

The walls of the ground floor are made of adobe stones. In the Spanish colonial period (late 16th century to late 19th century), "adobe" or volcanic tuff was quarried from Makati and Meycuayan, Bulacan for building material. The stones in Casa Manila were quarried from Bulacan. The uppermost floor, the living quarters, was made of wood. Since wood was lighter than stone, it was less hazardous during earthquakes. Notice that the uppermost floor extends outwards, helping to shade pedestrians during the day. Its real use though was for the stability of the living quarters during earthquakes. One will find the structure adjoining Casa Manila is stone on both floors. When the Spaniards first arrived, they built in this manner. This had to be revised though because it could not withstand earthquakes. Neither could inhabitants of such structures.

Zaguan and Patio

Zaguan is an Arabic word meaning "corridor". It is through the zaguan that the carriages or carruajes entered and deposited the passengers by the stairs.

The zaguan and the patio are paved with piedra china (granite). The stones were originally used by the Chinese as ballast for their junks. These were later sold in Manila for paving pedestrian lanes, patios and streets. The fountain is a feature that appeared after running water came to Manila in 1882.

FESTIVALS

Held every first Sunday of December, the four centuries - old celebration of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception has evolved into a grand display of various images of the Virgin Mary.

Since Pope Paul V declared the doctrine of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary no longer open to question, lavish celebrations were made in her honor.

The tradition ceased in 1945 until it was revived in 1954, when President Ramon Magsaysay led the first Marian procession assembling some 60 images of the Blessed Virgin. The event established the standards for today's celebrations, which are led by IA and Cofradia de la Inmaculada Concepcion.